Sunday, January 15, 2017

The TDI Gets A Little Love....

"The Helmet" Gets A Little Polish....

(Wait.  That sounds ALL sorts of wrong.)

I really don't give my VW enough love.

It's got a pretty rough gig, dragging me to work and back at least 5 days a week, with a total trip that sometimes goes over 100 miles.  I do take care of it, because I have to.  It's what I rely on to get me to and from work.  So if something goes wrong, I tend to spend money to get it fixed.

A month ago, I realized I had put over 50K miles on it since I had gotten it, and hadn't thought to check or find out what the service interval on the automatic transmission was.  A quick text to the previous owner, and a consultation with the owner's manual had the car in the dealership two days later to get the tranny serviced.

The dealership noticed that my tires, were pretty much worn down (Surprise!), so they needed to be replaced.  Two days later, the Helmet was riding on new rubber (That Didn't Sound Good Either..).

Your Point?

My point is, while I take care of the car, I don't do a lot of things to make it look or handle better, and I definitely don't do anything to make it faster.  I figured, it was time to show it some love, so I hiyt up Craigslist to look for something to try and address one of those three things.


Craigslist Crawling

I hit up Craigslist and started searching for something to put on the car.  Suspension, exhaust, exterior stuff...oh wait, I know what it needs.  New Wheels!  Entering "5x100" soon yielded a promising ad, that showed a set of wheels that should fit the Golf, perfectly.

Old School

A guy up in the Kansas City Area (Again? Really?)  had a set of Borbet Type C wheels for sale in the right bolt pattern and a inch wider than the factory rims on the Golf.  At about $200 for the set, it was a steal.  After confirming with the seller that the centerbore and offset would work, I set up an appointment on Saturday to drive up and meet him.

From a little research I found out the Type C was a fairly popular wheel with European vehicles, and it was also no longer in production.  Judging by the size (15x7), centerbore (72.5mm) and offset (+35mm), I think these wheels were originally intended for a BMW of some type.  No problem, that's why they make hubcentric rings.

Here's what they look like:

Thank You Google Images
Met up with the guy, picked up the wheels and headed back home.  Got the wheels unloaded and found one had a slight bend on the inboard side.  No problem had a local shop straighten it for a small fee.

Here's a shot of an older Golf with the Type C's installed:

It'll Be Fine..


Why Aren't They On The Car?

Because it's cold outside, and I want to put more performance oriented tires on this set of wheels and save the stockers, for winter use.  Which it is now.  Unfortunately.

Also, along with the new wheels and tires, I figure a slight suspension drop is in order as well.

 Can't have new wheels with stock ride height, right?

It'll Happen.


Alpha, Mike, Foxtrot...





Saturday, November 26, 2016

Looking For Surfboards...In Texas

Ow....That's Gonna Smart

 I installed a Blackbird Fabworx Single Diagonal Rollbar in the car a few months back to get the car ready for track days and also as a added safety feature on the street.  

One thing I noticed about this roll bar was that it comes really close to my head, with the NB1 seat in a comfortable driving position.  I now see why the Hard Dog Single Diagonal roll bar has the diagonal brace offset slightly,  to allow the driver some extra head room.

I don't regret buying the Blackbird bar, but I think that for a mostly street driven car, the Hard Dog might have been a better choice. 

I have the bar padded with SFI approved padding, but the thought of hitting the bar with my oversized noggin, just wasn't that appealing to me.  Unfortunately this is a real possibility with the shorter NB1 seats. Since I primarily plan to drive the car on the street, I wasn't really interested in installing a set of aftermarket seats at this time.

So, I hit up Car-Part and started searching for a set of NB2 "Surfboard"seats.

Surfboards?

The factory seats used in the 2001-2005 Miata/MX-5 cars, had a much taller seatback and headrest than the earlier seats.  They look kind of like a surfboard, so that's the name that stuck for them.    It's a popular upgrade for earlier model NB1 cars (like mine) and NA Miatas as well.  I've been keeping my eye out for a set locally, but haven't had much luck.  I thought using Car-Part.com might net me a set locally, or at the very least, in Kansas City.

Foiled Again!

Surprise, surprise.  There's not a very big supply of used Miata parts in this area.  A search in the Kansas/Missouri/Arkansas area didn't show a lot of promise, unlike my search for the same parts in Texas. Plenty of hits there.  Go figure.  I figured it was a good excuse to go see my folks and snag some seats for the car.

Road Trip!

Mazda Heaven....Indeed

Stopped by Nissan-Mazda Heaven in Ft. Worth, TX to check out what they had, before I headed further south to my parent's place.

If you need ANYTHING Miata related in the TX/OK/KS area, this is the place to go to. They ship as well, so I have a feeling I'll be talking to these folks again.

   Found a set of blue cloth NB2 seats in "decent" shape. Definitely pricier than what I was used to paying for seats from a junkyard, but I needed them and they had them, so..yeah capitalism and stuff.  I also picked up a 2001+ Header and a spare gauge cluster for a possible future project.

"The Doorknob", Earning Its Keep

Time To Make The Chimichangas...

Got them home after spending the weekend with my folks and tore them down to properly clean the seat covers, and the foam.

Bought a plastic storage tub and filled it with water and some liquid upholstery cleaner from a spot carpet cleaner. Washed the covers by hand (gently) and then hung them to dry.

I'm glad I washed them, because the water was pretty filthy after I was done.

Wiped the seat foam down with some Clorox Spray Cleaner with bleach, and painted the seat pans with POR15.The pans got a little rusty while in the junk yard.   Rattle canned the pans with some semi gloss black to cover the POR15.

Battleship Grey

Did a slight "foamectomy" to both seat bottoms, before reassembling everything.

"Slight" Foamectomy

Seat Backs Reassembled




Reinstalled everything. From the first picture, you can see the difference in height between the NB1 and NB2 seats.

See What I Mean About The Rollbar?



Blue And Tan?  Yeah...No.




I went ahead and drove the car to work a few weeks ago and after spending some time in the new seats, I had to make a few adjustments.

Removed a section of rollbar padding directly behind the Driver's Side seat. It interfered with reclining the seat enough for it to be comfortable.

Reinstalled the foam section I cut out for the "foamectomy" on the Driver's Side. The angle that I was sitting at with the foam cut out, just wasn't that comfortable on long drives. I might take it back out and cut some more foam out to try and get it perfect, but I think I'll see how I like it for right now.

Need to order some aftermarket upholstery to change out the blue cloth for tan leather. I thought I wouldn't mind it that much.

 I was wrong.

I think the NB1 seats were a bit more comfortable than the NB2 seats, but I can't question the fact that the NB2 seats offer a lot more protection with the rollbar installed.  So, until I make a final decision about the "Surfboards", I'm going to hold onto the NB1 seats for awhile longer.

Who knows?  I may grow to like them.

Alpha, Mike, Foxtrot...

Track Weekend Bro!

Seemed Like A Good Idea... 

Took the Miata out to my first ever driving even on the weekend of the 15th and 16th of October.

Driver's Edge was holding an event at Motorsport Ranch in Cresson, TX and I took my all season tired, stock 170K suspension having butt out there to see what the car could do.

My plan was to drive the car down, beat it on the track and then drive home. No sweat, right?

I didn't go completely unprepared....I put new rotors and Green Stuff pads on all around. So I had that going for me.

See? That's me being prepared.

Seriously though, I went over the car as best I could.  Checked fluids, looked the car over on the underside, checked the suspension, made sure wheels were torqued, along with the brakes.

Heading Out..

This was going to be my first real road trip in the car, since I had gotten it, so just a bit nervous.

 I drove from Wichita KS, pretty much straight through to Plano, TX to meet a friend at the Mercedes dealership he worked at. We bullshitted a bit, and he threw a quickie alignment on the car for me, and then we headed out to Cresson, to check into the hotel for the night.

It's Too Early For This...

Got to the track as early as we could and staked out a spot for us and another friend who was driving his new M3. Once we got settled in to our spot, got checked in, attended my first driver's class and got the car ready for the day.

Nice Numbering Job, Eh?

Getting it "ready" consisted of slapping some numbers on it, emptying the trunk, adjusting the seat, doing a last minute fluids check and yanking the floor mats out.  Before too long, the call over the loud speakers came for the Green Group, and I was off to my first session with my instructor.

How Was It?

I had a blast! Definitely more intense than I was expecting At first I was very hesitant with the car, and definitely a bit stressed.  Lots of traffic out there, and a lot of information to process.  The track was set up for a full 3.1 mile course, so it was kind of a beating for my first ever track day. I got passed (a lot), but I enjoyed pushing the car once I relaxed a bit. Also the instruction I got from my instructor and the classroom sessions went a long way as well.

High Resolution Yo

Little Car, Big Track

Next Time...

I wanted to take the car out there mostly stock to see what it felt like before I started modding it with suspension parts, and different wheels and tires.

This is one tough little car.  I beat the dog snot out of the car, and it handled everything like a champ. Had a few close calls, but I didn't stuff it in the dirt.

Made the 6 hour drive back to Wichita on Sunday, without a real hitch, besides the one in my back.

Now, I really want to get some suspension and new wheels and tires for this thing.

Oh and improve the "loose nut" behind the wheel as well.


Alpha, Mike, Foxtrot....

The Turtle Gets Stripped

Just A Little Work...

  One thing that bothered me about the car when I got it was the condition of the front and rear bumpers.

The front was pitted and looked to have been repainted a few times, along with a small puncture mark on the driver's side.

The rear bumper wasn't that great either, with evidence of a few resprays and some cracked paint, showing down to the primer.

So, while the car was down for the rollbar install, I went ahead and pulled the bumpers, and hood off to give to the guy who had painted my hardtop for me. The plan was to have everything painted and reinstalled before the track day in October.

Needless to say, the car looked a little funny:

Kind Of "Mad Maxish".

The Turtle And The Helmet


 Dropped everything off and waited a few weeks for him to get done. He said that the bumpers had definitely been repainted a few times, but he managed to strip them down completely. Charged me a little more than he quoted, but was happy with the job for the most part.

Except For This..

For some reason, he decided that the metal support plate in the front bumper, needed some Mica loving, so I ended up drilling the pop rivets out and spraying the whole thing with semi gloss black.  Nothing too terrible, just annoying.

He Even Painted The Rubber Seal For The Hood!

I Hate Gold...

Since the emblems had to come off, and I wasn't a fan of them being anodized gold, I shot them with some of the Shadow Cast paint for chrome, and painted them semi gloss black as well.

Put everything back together and it was looking a lot better.

Track Day Ready!

 Now I just need to do something about that dent in the driver's side rear quarter panel.


Alpha, Mike, Foxtrot....

Friday, November 25, 2016

VW Alternator Antics

It's Been Awhile..

Haven't updated this thing in a while.  I have no real excuse other than the CW started airing their Superhero shows again, and I get home late sometimes. 

Hmm.  Stay up late banging out a blog post or park my big ass on the couch and catch up with what Supergirl, The Flash, The Green Arrow and the Legends of Tomorrow crew are up to?

Let's just say that my couch has a rather nice, Muttski shaped dent in it now.  What can I say?  I'm a sucker for a blonde in a red skirt and a cape, flying around and dispensing justice.  And don't get me started on the White Canary.

 Damn.
  
Nevertheless, this doesn't mean things haven't been going on in the old garage, it just means I've been too lazy to document it.

So, since I have some downtime due to the Thanksgiving Holiday, I guess some posts are in order.

You Have Failed me For The Last Time....

Usually, I write about the Miata, because I'm always qworking on it.  However this time it was my old faithful and reliable daily driver that decided to act up. Yes, "The Helmet", my stalwart, diesel powered steed, has decided it needed some attention.

Did It Always Make This Noise?

 So, there I was driving the Helmet around town to run some errands.  Pulled into a parking spot and noticed it made this horrible, growling noise whenever I turned the wheel.  It was loud enough that people passing by were giving me the "What a hoopty" look.

This would not do.

Well, What's Wrong Now?

Determined to fix whatever was wrong with the car, and get rid of the God awful noise, I started troubleshooting.

In the parking lot.  Of a Target.  On a Saturday Night.

Do I know how to party, or what? 

I turned the wheel a few more times, and was able to repeat the noise, but noticed that it went away whenever I gave it a bit more throttle.  It struck me as weird that the noise was affected by RPM.  I popped the hood and checked the power steering fluid level, and noted that it was VERY low.  Well there's my problem!!  Right?  Just top that sucker off and it's back to noise free high MPG shenanigans.

Thanks VW

The power steering fluid used in most MkIV VW products, is something that's not available in the automotive section of your typical Wal-Mart or Target.  After some hurried research on my phone in the parking lot, I found out from several online forums, that in no uncertain terms  to NOT use off the shelf stuff, and instead use a dealer approved fluid.

Great, would totally do that...if a dealership was open at 8pm on a Saturday. 

Feeling defeated, I got the car home and started looking around in the garage and found a box of extras that were included with the car when I bought it.
Success!
 Found a container of power steering fluid in my box of junk and topped off the reservoir.  I figured, problem solved.

I was wrong.

I cycled the steering from lock to lock to try and bleed the system, for about 10 minutes and only succeeded in making more noise, pissing off my neighbors and thoroughly disgusting myself for not having noticed the power steering fluid was low.

At this point I figured either the power steering pump or rack had nuked itself, and I was going to have to spend some money to replace both components.  I resolved to just drive the car and live with the cringe inducing noises it made, until I could replace the parts or it blew up. 

Noisy Cricket

I drove it for about a week, with the noise haunting me in every parking lot, or low speed turn.  The "hooptification" of my vehicle continued unabated, and I wasn't happy about it.

The noise would go away, whenever the RPM's climbed past idle, and to me that didn't sound like a bad steering rack or power steering pump. Plus, there was no sign of fluid or leakage anywhere that I could see.  If it was making that much noise, there had to be some serious contamination in the pump and rack.  Surely it should have started to leak somewhere, right?

So, once again the hood was popped with the engine running.  I wanted to see if I could spot any leaks, with the rack under pressure.  I didn't see any leaks, but I did see something else that was unusual.

Twerk, Twerk, Twerk..

With the engine running at idle, the spring loaded tensioner for the serpentine belt was rocking back and forth so hard, I thought it was going to fly off and whack me in the head.  I know that tensioners are expected to move slightly during operation, but this one looked like a cracked out hula dancer.

Once again, I searched on the forums and researched what could possibly cause the tensioner to act like that.  A post on TDIClub (The "Go To" Forum For VW TDI Owners) stated that not only was the tensioner not supposed to do that, but the cause of the tensioner shaking, could also account for the horrible hoopty inducing sounds my car was making.

Thanks Volkswagen...Again

According to some forum members, the tensioner issue and the noises, were possibly due to a bad pulley on the alternator.  The alternator used a one way clutch incorporated into the pulley, for some dumbassed reason.  If it seizes up, then the serpentine belt would load up under tension at low speeds, causing a noise somewhat akin to a power steering setup, shitting itself.

I blocked the armature of the alternator with a screwdriver, and loosened the belt.  Sure enough, the pulley was locked up.

Fortunately, the pulley was replaceable in the car.

Unfortunately, it required a special tool set to replace it, along with a new pulley.
 Pisser. 
Off to ID Parts to order what I needed. A new pulley, and a tool kit to remove and install the pulley in the car. 
 Check out Metal Nerd for all your specialty and oddball  tools and bits for VW's and other cars.

This Is What I Needed: Metal Nerd MN3400 Alternator Bit Set

Adapt, Improvise....Hit It With A Hammer

After a few days, everything showed up and I was ready to tackle this thing and "Make My VW Great Again."  

Loosened the serpentine belt again, with a 17mm Open End Wrench and a tensioner lock tool to hold the tensioner in place.  Moved the belt out of the way.

Consulted the directions on the Metal Nerd Tool Kit and got a breaker bar with a 12mm socket to hold the center bit in place and  used the 17mm wrench to turn the bit on the alternator pulley.  Held the breaker bar in place, while turning the wrench in a loosening (counter clockwise) direction and.....

*STRIP!!!* (DAMN IT!!)

  The splines inside the alternator shaft, were either already stripped out, or the tool stripped them out when I applied my God Like torque to the wrench .  Either way, it was hosed and the alternator was going to have to come out.

Fortunately..

The alternator is pretty easy to remove. 2 13mm bolts hold it in place.  There is a electrical plug on the rear of the alternator, with a ring terminal held on by a 14mm nut with a lock washer.  There's also a clamp to hold the wiring in place, but it can be removed after the alternator bolts are removed to allow access to the 7mm nut holding the clamp in place.

With the alternator out, it was time to get "froggy" with the pulley.  Using the splined Metal Nerd bit and a 17mm socket, a electric impact gun was used to remove the old pulley.  The new pulley was threaded on along with a few tightening taps from the impact gun. A couple of "Ugga Uggas" if you want to get technical about it.

I Think That's Got It..

Reassembled everything, and I'm happy to report the tensioner doesn't shake anymore and the steering rack is quiet once again.

I've learned a few things from all this.

1.  Don't always assume the worst.  -  I was all ready to buy a new steering rack and a power steering pump, when the problem turned out to be a $39.95 (plus shipping) bearing, plus a $29.95 (plus shipping)  specialty tool kit. A little more troubleshooting and a clearer head, saved me some money and aggravation.

2.  VW Engineers Need A Kick In The Ass-  Seriously?  A special bit set to pull off a freaking pulley?  Was a bolt and lock washer too mainstream for you guys?

3.  I've Got Nothing-  I'm just glad the stupid thing isn't making the noise anymore.

And, I think the door sensor switch on the Driver;'s Side Front door is going out now.

Fawk....


Alpha, Mike, Foxtrot....



 

Monday, September 26, 2016

Intake Addendum

Well, I Already Have It..

As I mentioned before, I got a "custom" crossover tube with my Racing Beat Intake for my 99 Miata.

I remember taking a look at it when I got it, and a cursory examination revealed it SHOULD work on my car, albeit with some slight modifications.

 

Why Do This?

The piping used is of a larger diameter than the OEM Plastic Crossover Tube.

Maybe it could act like a Poor Man's ARC Plenum Chamber?  Possibly?   Just Way Cheaper?


Pricey Japanese Parts


Ahhh.....Probably not. 

 I seriously doubt this particular piece will do anything power wise.

It'll probably look very nice, and possibly strand me on the side of the road one night because that's what "custom parts" do.

Screw it.  Let's put it on the car.  I'm tired of tripping over it in the garage.


What Are We Working With Here?

The pipe wasn't really anything special.  Just 2 pieces of polished 3 in diameter piping, with 90 degree bends at each end.  The two pieces were welded together in the center, with beaded edges welded onto the ends of the piping that went into the Throttle Body and MAF Inlet.  There was also a  aluminum nipple welded into the O.D. of the piping for the breather line from the valve cover.

I'm no welder, but the welds didn't look to be done very well.  Better than anything I could do, but not very good in general. Along with the welds, I was also concerned about welding spatter or debris from the installation of the nipple in the pipe.

There were a couple of nice quality 2.75 to 3.0 in silicone couplers included, but no hose clamps.

The previous owner of the intake kit said he had a buddy make the pipe up for him, but never got around to installing it.

OK, I can work with this.

 

 Let's Make This Work

A quick test fit showed that the overall length of the piping, was a bit too long to fit properly.

Since it was too long, and I wanted to inspect and clean up any possible internal debris that I couldn't view easily, I decided to cut the piping in half.  The cut was made pretty much right in the middle, with a cutoff wheel in a die grinder at first, then finished with a electric jigsaw.

  Knowing that the pipe would have to be cut, I had already ordered a Black 3 in Hump Coupler from Silicone Intakes , to join the two sections together.  The hump coupling would also offer some flexibility in the piping to accommodate engine movement while driving.

I carefully ground down the edges of the cut pieces to allow the pieces to fit between the TB and MAF properly.  This also allowed the hump coupler to fit easier, with the welds on the OD of the piping to act as beaded edges for the coupler and clamps.  The edges were filed to remove any flash, or debris and sanded smooth.

As I suspected, there was some potential debris present from drilling and welding the aluminum nipple in place.  I knocked off the loose metal and welding slag, and hit the area with a file and sandpaper to try and clean it up.

Ran a clean rag through both pieces of piping to clean the ID of the piping of may debris. 

Needs More Hose Clamps
Installed hose clamps on the coupler ends, and tightened everything down.  Hooked up the breather line and started the car.  No issues, appeared to be working well and even seems to clear the hood when closed.

 

Was It Worth It?

Probably not.  It just looks a lot better than the stock plastic tube, and it probably has no performance benefit whatsoever.  I was just tired of looking at it.

  Hopefully nothing comes loose and leaves me stranded on the side of the road.


I probably should start carrying tools when I drive this car from now on.

Alpha, Mike, Foxtrot...

Friday, September 23, 2016

Blackbird Fabworx Roll Bar Install

Well, It Finally Showed Up

 After about a week and a half after ordering it, my Blackbird Fabworx Single Diagonal Rollbar showed up at my apartment via UPS Ground.

I was expecting it to be delivered to the complex Manager's Office, but instead the driver dropped it off in the hallway in front of my door.
I'm Here!
This meant I got to lug the package back up the stairs and outside to my detached garage.

Fine.  (I can use the exercise.)

So I got the box moved out to the garage and started tearing into it.

Unboxing

The bar was well boxed and protected during shipping.  It took me about 15 minutes to completely extract the bar, and hardware from the box.

Most of this was due to the large amount of packing material, and tape protecting the powdercoated surface of the bar.  It protected everything quite well, just made cutting everything loose "fun".

There's A Roll Bar In There
Once I got it loose and free of the protective materials, I got my first good look at at the bar.

Ooh!!  Pretty Welds!

Nicely Made Mount Plates

Excellent Powder Coat Job
My first impressions of the bar, were that the fans of Blackbird Fab, were right on the money.  Everything was well made, with nice looking welds and a excellent job on the powdercoat.

The hardware kit included 4 backing plates for the mounts on the bar, along with Grade 8 Nuts, Bolts and Washers for the install.  The backing plates were also powder coated and were well machined with rounded edges on the corners.

I consulted the print out of the instructions that Blackbird's owner emailed me when I bought the bar, and did an inventory of all the parts.  Everything was present.  Time to get started.

Let The Slaughter Begin

I did the install pretty much by myself.  Despite what some YouTube "mechanics" might say in their videos, you can in fact do this by yourself.

  It's just a pain in the ass without an extra set of hands, but meh...it can be done.

So, I started by removing everything that was in the way.  I had already pulled the hard top and stored it in my apartment the day before the bar arrived, so it made the interior removal a lot easier.

Before

After

Seats:

First things to go were the seats.  You could do this with them in installed, but it was literally eight 14mm bolts, and took about 3 minutes to pull.  You'll want the extra room this affords.

Rear Carpet:

Removing the rear carpet is a fairly easy process.  I believe there are four 10mm threaded fasteners at the base of the carpet behind the seats, and the rest of the fasteners are plastic carpet trim plugs.  If you can, use the proper tool to remove them, Panel Clip Pliers. If you don't use these, and go after them with a flat head screwdriver, and a pair of needle nose pliers, you WILL BREAK MOST OF THEM.

Like I did.

Luckily, there's place online that sells them in bulk.  25 plugs for about 7 or 8 dollars.  They only come in black, but it beats paying $2 a plug from the dealership.

Parcel Shelf Carpet:

Same thing as before.  Remove the trim plugs and pull the parcel shelf carpet off.  The carpet has a large sound deadening panel glued to it.  I pulled mine off like a dumbass, and had to wrestle with a it a bit when everything went back together.

Trim Pieces:

Remove all the trim pieces on either side of the car.  Most of these parts are snapped in place, and can be removed fairly easily.  Some of them have plastic push rivets and screws holding them in place.  My car came with a factory windblocker, so it had to come out before I could pull all the panels off.  At this point, you should also go ahead and remove the parcel shelf cover.  It's held on with a bunch of 10mm bolts.


Soft Top:

The bar can be installed with the soft top in place, but is MUCH easier to do without the top in place.  There are three 12mm bolts on the inboard side where the top frame bolts to.  There a number of nuts holding 3 U-Shaped brackets under the softop window towards the rear.  These need to come out as well.  Disconnect your defroster harness, and get ready to lift the whole thing out of the car.  This is one of the places where having an extra body would be handy.  The top assembly isn't that heavy, but it is awkward to handle by yourself.

Once that's done, it's time to start making irreversible mods to your car.

Seatbelt Mods:

Unbolt the seatbelt guides and retain the mount bolt.  You'll need it later.  Remove the upper screw/bolt on the seatbelt reel along with the lower.  You'll be reusing the lower bolt, and possibly the upper as well.
Break off the locating tab on the reel to allow the reel to move inboard with the lower bolt attached.  Loosely install the mount bolt on the reels and bring the top end of the reel as far inboard as possible, while allowing the reel to still function.
Mark a hole with a centerpunch and drill a hole that allows a bolt to hold the reel in this position.
For my car, I had to scrounge in my bolt bin to find two appropriate metal self tapping screws to do the job.
Remove the lower mounting bolts once the seatbelt reels are in place.


Cutting/Trimming:

Now you need to start making some cuts, to allow the rear legs of the bar to clear the parcel shelf.
At this point you have two choices.  You can remove the minimum amount of metal to allow the bar to clear, and maintain a neat appearance or you can cut more metal out and have an easier time with drilling the holes for the rear mount feet.  Your choice.

I placed the bar in the car temporarily, which was another point where someone to help, would have been great.  With the bar in place, I "eyeballed" where I thought the rear bar would pass and estimated how far back.  In the interest of making it look as neat as possible, I cut both sides with approximately the same dimensions, and tried to follow the contour of the metal when possible.

Rough Estimate

Cut Too Far Back

Same Here, But It Made It Easier To Drill The Holes For The Mount Plates

Bar Set In Car

See?  Cut It Too Far Back.


 
I had to make a few adjustments on my initial cuts, but it didn't turn out too bad.  I used a electric die grinder with a cutoff wheel for the majority of the cuts.  The rest were made with a hacksaw and a electric jigsaw.  Once I had my final cuts made, I dressed the sharp edges of the cuts with a mill and bastard file.  I also tried to use a half round file to radius the sharp corners of my cuts.

I also placed the Parcel Shelf cover back on and trimmed it as well with the same tools.  The edges were also dressed and radiused as best as possible with the files.

The cut edges of the Parcel Shelf in the were masked off and had POR-15 applied to the exposed edges of metal, to try and prevent rust from forming.  I also hit the areas where the rear mount feet would be bolted to the car.

Grey POR-15

Hopefully No Rust

Drilling:

At this point it's time to place the bar in the car and start drilling holes for the mount plates.
Got the bar back in and used the lower seatbelt reel bolts to "lock" the bar in place to start drilling the holes needed.
The clearance from the side of the bar to the old seatbelt tower was very tight, so I used two pieces of cardboard stuffed between the bar and  seatbelt tower to center the bar before I tightened down the lower seatbelt reel bolts.
Ensure that all wiring on the front mount pads are inboard of the main hoop, and outboard at the rear pad.  I didn't do this and it bit me in the butt later on.
Using a centerpunch, I marked the center of the bolt holes for the front and rear mount plates.  The rear mount pads under the parcel shelf already lined up (mostly) with existing holes in the body, so two mount bolts were dropped in place to try and keep everything centered.  The holes for the rear pads are kind of difficult to access easily, so it might be easier to get at them from the bottom of the car.
Drilled the marked holes in the front pads with a smaller pilot bit, then went to the final size.  I hit the freshly drilled areas with POR-15.

To get at the rear to drill the holes required, you need to jack the rear end of the car up, remove both rear wheels and pull the wheelwell splash guards.
Using the rear backing plate as a template, I got the holes marked with a center punch and drilled my pilot holes.  Depending on the position, it might be easier to drill from the bottom or the top.  Once the final holes were drilled with the right sized drill bit, more POR-15 was applied to the holes.

Mounting:

Per the instructions, I applied a generous amount of RTV to the mount plates where the holes were drilled and through the holes themselves before tightening everything down.
During the final tightening process, I also kept the doors of the car closed to make sure nothing was not aligned when the bar was tightened down.
Once it was tightened down at all 4 mount points, I reinstalled the rear wheel well splashguards and wheels to put the car back on the ground.
Note Where The Wiring Is.  That's Not Correct.

Bolted Down With Black RTV

Bolted In!

Trimmed Parcel Shelf Cover



 Finishing Up:

The Seatbelt Guide gets relocated to tabs welded onto the rollbar.  The original bolt that mounted the guide to the car, will get cut down and reinstalled on the tabs on both sides of the car.

The trim pieces will need to be reinstalled after being cut and modified to fit.  Blackbird provides a diagram that shows where to cut, and it's fairly simple to do.  Just take your time.
Trimmed Pieces

Side Trim


Remember the wiring on the Driver's Side near the front mount plate?  Turns out in order for the trim panel to fit properly, it needs to go behind the main hoop and not in front of it. Since the connector is rather large, and I wasn't about to unbolt the rollbar again, I had to de-pin the connector and route the wiring properly.
Incorrect Routing

Corrected Routing


 After that, it's merely putting everything back together.  Trim pieces, soft top, seats and all the other stuff that got taken off.


Conclusion

I still haven't driven the car with the rollbar installed, because I've got the bumpers and hood off to get repainted.  But, I can already tell it's made a difference to the integrity of the car.

My D/S Door has always been hard to close, requiring a very firm "slam" to get it to shut. It now requires far less force to close properly.   Which isn't conclusive evidence to be sure, but I'm sure once I drive it, I'll be able to tell.

I still need to install the SFI Padding and figure out some way to cover it for street driving.

The bar is very close to my head, and buying a set of seats to get me lower in the car may have just taken precedence if I'm gonna drive this thing on the street.

Overall, it wasn't that hard and I'm pretty pleased with the result, even if I wish I had done a few things differently.

I'll get it right on the next one.

Alpha, Mike, Foxtrot.....