Sunday, March 25, 2018

This Blows! Or Not...

Well, It's "Later"

Back when I got "Trogdor" from my buddy, I had to undo some "Because Racecar" type of modifications made to the car.

One of the modifications was the reinstallation of the Heater Box, Blower Motor and associated Ducting under the dash.  I also wanted to replace the cracked 93 Dash with one in better condition.

I picked up the parts from a 91 TSi that a mutual friend was junking back in Texas, along with a replacement Dashboard from a local junkyard.

The Dashes were swapped and the Blower Motor, Heater and Ducting were installed as well.  Unfortunately, the Temperature Selector Cable wasn't installed properly, and I could never get full range of motion out of the dial.

At the time, it worked (kind of), and I really didn't feel like dicking around with possibly having to pull the Dash again if the Heater Core had to come back out, so I let it sit and resolved to fix it..."later".

Fix One Thing...

A week or so ago, I finally fixed my Fuel Gauge and had the engine running to check everything out in the cockpit of the car.

I decided to check the operation of the Blower Motor, Mode Select and Ventilation settings, and of course..

Something Broke

The Mode Select Knob got stuck in the Defrost position and wasn't blowing air out of the Defrost Vents.  I couldn't get the knob to rotate back to the Vent position and of course the Temperature Selector Knob, only "Kind Of" worked.  At least the Ventilation Source Knob worked just fine. 

 I had that at least going for me.

They Put It, Where?

After a few days of procrastination, I decided I might as well fix the stupid thing.  Again.

In order to do that, a bit of the Interior needed to be removed to access the Control Cables for the Ventilation and Heating System.

It wasn't hard to remove, I was just irked because I had taken some of it apart a bit ago when I was troubleshooting my Fuel Gauge issue.

Figures.

This is what I removed:
  • Glovebox
  • Radio
  • D/S Knee Protector Pad
  • Center Console Side Panels
  • Ventilation Ducting On The Passenger And Driver's Side
Now, time to get after it.

Mode Select

This was a easy fix, as the Selector Cable had popped loose from the Retaining Clip securing it to the Heater Box.  Without the cable secured, it couldn't move the Mode Select Lever on the Heater Box.

The Lever is located on the Driver's Side of the car, underneath the Dash.  The Knee Protector Pad, and the Side Cover for the Center Console needs to be removed to access this Cable.  You'll have to lay on your back and crawl under the dash to see it.

I disconnected the Cable and manually cycled the Lever on the Heater Box to confirm the Lever wasn't binding.  Moving the Lever to the proper positions manually, had air from the Blower Motor going to the proper vents.

The Cable End was reinstalled and secured in the Retaining Clip after consulting the FSM to ensure it was adjusted correctly.

It's Getting Hot In Here

The Temperature Selector Lever is located on the Passenger Side of the car, directly behind the Radio.  Removing the Radio, Glovebox and the Side Panel for the Center Console makes this easier to access than the Mode Selector Lever.

The Cable End and the Cable itself was still secured properly, and working (kind of), so I checked the FSM for the adjustment procedure.

It turns out the Cable was improperly adjusted and just needed to be reinstalled correctly.

Why Not?

I also checked the Ventilation Source Cable and verified adjustment, since it was easy to reach due to the Glovebox being removed already.

Adjustments

Per The 93 Factory Service Manual:

Temperature Control
  •  Set Temperature Knob to "HOT" (Full Clockwise)
  • Lever On Heater Box, Pressed Completely "DOWN"
  • Secure Rod End And Cable In These Positions
Mode Select
  • Set Mode Knob to "Defrost" (Full Clockwise)
  • Lever On Heater Box, Pressed "FORWARD" Towards The Firewall
  • Secure Rod End and Cable In These Positions
Ventilation Source
  • Set Air Select Knob to "RECIRCULATE"
  • Lever On Air Duct, Pressed Completely Against The Stopper
  • Secure Rod End And Cable In These Positions

Now, if only I still had A/C in this stupid thing.


Alpha, Mike, Foxtrot....



Sunday, March 18, 2018

Put The Spray Can Down...

Good Intentions, Poor Results

Tinted Taillights on certain cars is never a sure thing.

When properly executed, some cars look great with them and some, just don't.

Even if a car manages to pull off the "look" with a set of Tinted Taillights, they do need to be maintained.
Ugh
Over the years with out regular care, or the occasional touch up, your "Sick Ass" Taillights, just start looking like...Ass.

Sadly, I Think It Looks Better Now
Which is what I think happened to my 98 Talon. 

I'm not sure what happened here, but as you can see...she hasn't aged well.  Both taillights are dull, faded and very dirty.  The same thing goes for the Center Trim Bezel.  Not sure why the center wasn't tinted, but it looks tired too.

Like the Rear End of "Trogdor", my other Talon, these things need a refresh.  Badly.

Almost Like The Last Time

The big difference between the 98 and the 93 Taillights though, is the presence of the Tint itself on the taillights.  This would need to be removed before any real work could start on anything.
Sexy


Bath Time

Again, the Taillights and Center Bezel were cleaned off in the Bathtub.  Being an apartment dweller, unfortunately it's my only option.

  Any loose dirt, or debris were carefully removed from the various assemblies.  Once done washing, the pieces were dried off to prepare for the next step.

Un-Tint Your Ride

The Center Trim Bezel was disassembled and prepped for refinishing.
Easier To Tear Down Than The 93 Bezel

The surface of both Taillights was carefully wetsanded with 800 Grit Sandpaper to remove the old coating used to tint the lights.

Unfortunately some of the raised lettering molded on the surface of the lights was sanded smooth to ensure all of the coating was removed.

Once this was done, the Taillights and the Center Trim Bezel were then Wetsanded further with 1000, 1500, 2000 and finally 2500 Grit Sandpaper.

A Little Polish

The Center Trim Bezel unfortunately had quite a bit of "crazing" present under the Reflective Lens due to age or exposure to the elements.  Polishing and Wetsanding the Bezel can't do anything to hide this, but it will still make the entire assembly look a lot better.
Crazed

The Taillights were Polished using a Headlight Refinishing Kit from Mother's.  The Polishing Ball was installed on a Cordless Drill and Both Taillights were polished.
Much Better


The Center Trim Bezel was also Polished using the kit.  The large Black Plastic section was also Wetsanded and Polished as well.

Painting

The Center Trim Bezel had raised letters spelling "TALON" on the Upper Panel.  These needed to be masked off and painted.  

The area was carefully masked off with Painter's Tape and a Razor Knife.  3 Coats of Semi Gloss Black were applied, with two coats of Matte Clear.
"Carefully"

Meh.  It Worked
After drying, the raised Letters were Wetsanded to remove large defects on the paint, and then polished with the Cordless Drill and Polish from the Headlight Restoration Kit.


The Black Panel Hasn't Been Polished Yet

All Together Now

As you can see, the Rear End Looks a lot better now.
Getting There

Still Missing Something

Forced Performance And Texas...Represent!!

Thank God, That's Over

Seeing the car look better, with some small changes is keeping me motivated.  This thing is a huge mess right now, and at times it feels a little overwhelming.  I've resurrected plenty of 1G DSM's before, but the 2G is uncharted territory.

One step at a time.

Alpha, Mike, Foxtrot...

Saturday, March 17, 2018

Fuel Gauge..Malfunction!!!


"What do you want me to do Mix?"  "Push freak! Push!" -Sir MixaLot


I Think I've Got Enough...Hopefully.

This is something I said a few times while driving "Trogdor" to get tagged and titled last year. 

The Fuel Gauge had never worked since I got the car back in early 2017.  My buddy said it worked for him, when he had it, but the car had sat for a few years, so who knew what was going on with it?

Bad wiring?  Faulty Sending Unit? Bad Gauge?  Who knew?  I know I didn't have any idea.

 I DESPISE troubleshooting Electrical Problems, especially ones that could involve tracing wiring down.  So, I let it slide for the most part.  Eventually, I made a half assed attempt at fixing the problem, by taking the old "Troubleshooting Shotgun" and threw some parts at it.

Round 1....Fight!

The car had left me stranded on the way back from the registration trip due to Bad Gas in the tank and a thoroughly grungy, and nasty looking Walbro Fuel Pump and Filter Sock.

So in typical DSM Fashion, Trogdor was brought home on a flatbed trailer from it's maiden voyage under my ownership.  Not a good way to start things.
Just Chilling For Two Hours, Waiting For A Tow


To ensure this didn't happen again.  I drained the tank, and added some Marvel Mystery Oil to the tank along with fresh fuel.  The car ran great and made it to Cars And Coffee the next morning without a hitch.  No one paid any attention to it, but I was stoked. 
I Made It!!

Nobody Cares!
In order to avoid another encounter with a Flatbed, I decided to replace the existing Fuel Pump and Fuel Filter.  I had already bought a used Fuel Level Sending Unit, because like I said, throwing parts at something without actually troubleshooting the issue ALWAYS works.  

60% of the time.

Swapped out the pump with another Walbro 255 lph HP from Auto Performance Engineering in Texas.  I've bought pumps from him for years and he only sells Genuine Walbro Pumps and Install Kits. Go see him for your Fuel Pump needs.  A great guy to deal with.

The Fuel Level Sending Unit was swapped out at that time with one that checked good with a multimeter.  The one that was in the car when I bought it, didn't read correctly on the meter. 

Per the FSM: Full-Approx 1-5 Ohms, Empty- 103-117 Ohms.

Put everything back in, and started the car to check for leaks.  No leaks...and no change in the Fuel Level Gauge.

*FML*  The Troubleshooting Shotgun has failed me. Again.

I decided to try and fix it later, when I had time.

A Funny Thing Happened On The Way Home...

"Later" never really happened, because of a slight accident back in September of last year.  I  had other things on my mind, besides my cars and I was pretty busy just trying to get back on my feet.

I eventually did get back on my feet, and I resolved to finally try and really figure this issue with the car out.  It wasn't a life or death type issue, it just made my OCD flare up because the stupid gauge continued to defy me by displaying "E" all the time.

It was mocking me, and I wasn't going to stand...or sit for it.

It's Go Time..

Stop Mocking Me!

 I cracked open the Factory Service Manual and started troubleshooting with the easy stuff first.

Continuity-  I checked to see if the circuit from the Fuel Pump Connector to the Connector in the Dash for the Gauge Cluster was complete.   

Using some wire, jumper leads and my multimeter I checked the path from Connector E-30 (Fuel Pump Connector) to C-65 (Under Dash/Body Harness).  This checked good.

From C-65 to D-05 (R/H Side Dash/Gauge Cluster) showed good as well.  I also checked continuity from the Gauge itself to the Ribbon Connector on the back of the Gauge Assembly.  It was good as well.

The resistance in the path from E-30 to D-05 was approximately 3.3 Ohms.  I was told that anything over 1 Ohm was suspect.  I had a mishmash of wires, leads and probes to check the circuit, so I couldn't get a clean resistance reading.  

My main concern was that a path existed from the Fuel Pump Connector to the Dash, which I had confirmed.  

Time to move on to the next step.

Resistance- I checked the resistance reading from the Fuel Level Sending Unit again.  It read approximately 10 Ohms, and I knew that the tank was still fairly full from before the accident.  This seemed to indicate that the Sending Unit was still good, since it should read around 10 Ohms with a mostly full tank.  

I checked the resistance on the Fuel Level Gauge in the cluster as well using info from the FSM.  It passed all checks, except for a reading between the A-B Terminals.   It read approximately 20 Ohms lower than what it should.  

Per the FSM, the next step was to replace the gauge with a new one.  I had one spare Gauge Cluster and I installed it in the car to test the Gauge.  It didn't work, and I was worried about the Fuel Level Sending Unit being bad after all.

Let's Try This Again

I put an ad out on a local Facebook group, and someone in town said they had a spare 91+ DSM Gauge Cluster For Sale.  I swung by and picked it up from the guy and hoped for the best.

I Hope This Works

Plugged the new Gauge Cluster in and.....
SUCCESS!

The used Gauge Cluster worked as it should.  No mockery present.

  I swapped the Fuel Level Gauge from that cluster to the one that came in my car and checked it again.  

No issues, works like a charm.  

Mock me, will you? Hah!!

Did I Learn Anything?

Yes.  I still hate troubleshooting Electrical Issues.

But, if properly applied, using logical steps to troubleshoot issues with the proper information and tools, you can eventually diagnose and rectify a number of issues without "throwing parts at it."

And it probably won't take you almost a year to fix something either.


Alpha, Mike, Foxtrot...

Wednesday, March 7, 2018

Rear Garnish Refresh

Trying To Polish A Broken Turd

A few weeks back, I "attempted" to install a cleaner set of Taillights and Center Bezel on my 93 Talon.  It didn't go so well.

I cracked the Reflective Panel of the Center Bezel, ruining what was at the time, a fairly clean and defect free piece.   Not so much now, unfortunately.

I couldn't find another Center Garnish, clean or otherwise, so I decided to try and do something with the one I pulled off the car. 

The scratched, dirty and rusty one?  Oh yeah, this will be....fun

At Least It's Not Cracked..

It's A Little Rough

 This thing has definitely seen better days.  The Reflector Lens is fairly scratched, dull and worn.  The black plastic Surround where the License Plate sits is faded as are the black plastic Pods under the Reverse Lamps.  
It's Worse..
The rear Support Frame is made out of metal and is pretty rusty in some spots, and overall just very dirty.  

The Support Frame is plastic welded to some tabs on the rear of the Reflector Lens.  It's also bolted to the Reflector in two places where the License Plate sits.

The Plastic Welds are very fragile and have a tendency to separate from the metal Frame as time goes on.  Automotive Goop seems to work well to repair these connections when used sparingly. 
Repair 1

Repair 2

Tear It Down

The entire Center Taillight Bezel Assembly is made up of several different components and is overall, a bit fragile due to it's construction and age.  
Use Caution When Taking This Assembly Apart!

1.  Remove The License Plate Lights- The two Lights for the License Plate are secured to the Metal Support Frame by a total of 4 very small Phillips Head Machine Screws.  The threads on my screws were corroded, so a application of Liquid Wrench or Kroil was needed to remove them.  Be sure to use the correct size Screwdriver.  It's very easy to strip these fasteners out.
There They Are
2.  Remove The Reverse Light/Pods- There are two Reverse Light "Pods" screwed into the Garnish Assembly with a total of 8 Fasteners for the two Pods.  There is a small plastic "Trim Cover" located on the Inboard Side of both Lights.  This can be removed from the rear by pushing then out from behind, with your fingers, or by using a small Flat Tip Screwdriver to pop the covers off.  
Screw Covers Removed

With the covers removed you will see two large Phillips Head Screws.  Remove these carefully.  They're screwed into ABS Plastic, so they could be brittle enough to crack.

The Reverse Lights are also retained by screws that are on the Outboard side of both Light Assemblies.  
Sneaky
The easiest way to remove the lights was to use Penetrating Oil on the Metal Screws and CAREFULLY loosen them from the housings, using the proper sized Phillips Head Screwdriver.

You should now be able to maneuver the Reverse Lights out of the Main Assembly.

This may or may not be the actual way to remove them, but it is what worked for me.  

Your results may vary.

3.  Wiring- Remove the Bulbs/Plugs from the various Lights in the Panel.  The Wiring Harness is secured to the Metal Support Frame with Push Through Wire Clip.  You should be able to use your fingers to push the Clip out without cutting it.  Or cut it if you need to.  It's probably overkill anyway. 
No Cuts
4.  Cleaning- I rinsed everything off in the tub, because I'm in a apartment, and that's all I had available.  If you're lucky enough to be in a house with a water hose, get after it then.  I wanted to remove as much loose dirt, trash or other debris from the parts, before the next step.  
Cleaning/Polishing/Masking Supplies


5.  Polishing- The Main Lens of the Bezel was pretty scratched up and dull looking.  I used some Sandpaper to prep the surface before I started polishing.  Starting with 800 Grit and progressing to 1000, 1500, and finally 2000 grit, the entire Reflector Lens was wet sanded to try and knock out the scratches and cuffs present on the lens.

After wiping down the sanded areas with a clean cloth, the prepped surface was polished using a Headlight Restoration Kit from Mother's . Follow the directions on the box, and you should see some great results.  I also polished the Reverse Light Lenses as well.

6.  Masking- The Main Reflector and the Reverse Light Assemblies were masked off to be repainted.  I opted for a Semi Gloss Enamel to try and freshen up the faded areas on the Rear Bezel.

Reverse Masked

Main Bezel Assembly

Curves Suck
7. Painting-  I should have taken a bit more care with this step, and gotten better results.  Everything turned out OK, but if I had invested a bit more time in the process it, would have turned out a lot better.

  I gave the areas to be painted a cursory pass with the 1000 Grit Sandpaper.  Cleaned the affected areas and then applied the first coat of the Rustoleum Black Semi Gloss Acrylic Enamel Paint.   What I should have done was use a primer coat and then, applied the paint.

After adding a few more coats, I allowed it to dry overnight.  The paint on the Reverse Light Pods, ran in a few places and generally looked like ass.  I tried to wet sand the Light Pods and the Screw Covers, applied a few more coats of paint and allowed them to dry again.

Once the paint was dry, I again Wet Sanded the Reverse Light Pods, Screw Covers and the Black Area for the License Plate on the Main Bezel.  Using a Cordless Drill and some Polish from the Headlight Restoration Kit, I buffed the painted areas slightly.  This brought out a bit of a shine to the painted areas and also removed some of the imperfections.
Slightly Polished Bezel

Wet Sanding To Try To Remove Paint Runs
In the future, if I have to do something like this again, I will take more time to do the job properly.  This way worked, but it could have been done a lot easier and looked better.

Reassembly

Don't Eat These Pods Kids

Looks Better
Once everything was Painted, Cleaned and Polished, I went ahead and reassembled everything.  The Reverse Light Pods were reattached, along with the License Plate Lights and Wiring Harness.

Back Together

 The Weather Strip on the edge of the Bezel was reattached with some Goop and Painters Tape.
Gluing Seal And Replacing Lights

 The Bulbs for the Reverse and License Plate Lights were replaced with Sylvania Silverstar  Bulbs.

Installation

*Don't Crack It This Time Dummy*

Remembering the fiasco from a few weeks ago, I wanted to ensure the installation went better this time.

I removed the Rear Hatch Trim Cover and exposed the hardware for Removing and Installing the Center Taillight Bezel.  A total of 7 small 10mm Nuts need to be removed from the Mounting Studs on the back of the Center Taillight Bezel.  Once these are removed, the piece can be carefully removed by pushing on the studs.
Interior Trim Panel Removed

A Total of 7 10mm Nuts Hold The Center Taillight Bezel.
The Bezel was carefully removed and placed aside.  The refinished Bezel was placed on the car with the Studs aligned with the mounting holes.  The wiring harness was plugged in as well.

Using some GENTLE pressure, the Bezel was pushed into place and held in place while the Nuts were started on the studs.  The Nuts were tightened down slowly a bit at a time until they bottomed out.  It's in and I didn't crack the stupid thing this time.
Go Me.
Uncracked...This Time.

A Little Polish

The Left and Right Taillights were in very good shape, but had some spots that needed to be addressed.

There was a small dried blob of Contact Cement on the Right Taillight and several small Blotches from  what looked like Spray Paint on the Left Taillight.  Some light wet sanding with 2000 Grit Sandpaper took care of the Paint Splotches, and some Goo Gone and a Razor Blade took care of the dried Glue on the right.

Both Taillights and the Center Bezel were wiped down with a wet rag and the polish from the Headlight Restoration Kit was used with the Cordless Drill to clean everything up.  After a quick wipedown with a Microfiber Cloth, and a check of the Lights, this job was finished.
It's Not Perfect, But It's A Lot Better

Finished


That Was A Lot Of Work

Unfortunately the supply of Talon specific parts for this platform is dwindling as time goes on.  These were popular cars at one point, but a lot of them were abused and junked over the years.

In order to keep these things looking decent, sometimes you're going to go the extra mile and do more work than the average enthusiast.

Part of the price for driving, modifying and maintaining something old and unique.

Until the next thing breaks...

Alpha, Mike, Foxtrot...


Sunday, February 25, 2018

Even More 98 Talon Interior Antics-Part 1

Looks Like Butt

The weather has been pretty crappy the last couple of days, so I decided to try and get a little more stuff done to the interior of the 98, because...Lord.  It needs help.
Dumpster Fire, 1 Each

Embrace The Horror


Previously I had gone through some of the wiring and had generally "unfu**ed" a lot of things and cobbled together one "good" center console out of two other consoles.

Today I decided to tackle some items that would have more of a visual impact towards getting this thing, looking like a car again.

Ejecto Seato, Cuz..

The previous owner had removed the part of the carpet on the Passenger Side of the car for some reason, and left a bit of a mess with some spilled oil as well.

I had sourced a used replacement carpet from someone parting their car out, and with the interior mostly torn apart, it seemed like a good time to install this stuff.

 First step, remove the seats.  Which would be easy enough if the Driver's Seat wasn't a Power Seat, and I had a Battery in the car.

The Factory Service Manual outlined a procedure for removing the Drive Motor for the Power Seat from the rails, which would allow you to manually move the seat back and forth to access the mounting fasteners.

The Drive Mounts are located under the front of the Driver's Seat and consist of two small 4 mm Allen Head Bolts on the Feft and Right Hand side of the seat.  Remove the bolts and you can now pop the ends of the Drive Motor off of the splined shafts that allow the Seat to move on the rails.  You can now move the seat Fore and Aft to access the 14 mm nuts and bolts securing the seat to the floor of the car.  The Passenger Side Seat is a conventional seat and can be easily removed by loosening the same fasteners on the Passenger Side.
Yeah, That's Kind Of Gross

Wall To Wall Carpeting

With the seats out, removing the carpet is fairly easy.  

The Sill Plates on the Driver and Passenger sides are pressed into place with snap clips for retention.  Simply pry up carefully, and the snap clips should release.

The Lever Arms for the Hatch Release and Fuel Door Release are on the Driver's Side.  Two Phillips Head Screws hold the plastic Trim Cover in place, and this piece needs to be removed.

The Dead Pedal on the Driver's Side need to come out.  On my car there was only one bolt holding it in place under one of two Trim Covers on the Dead Pedal.  Once cover can be unscrewed  and the other one pops out with a small Flat Tip Screwdriver.  A 10 mm Bolt holds the pedal in place.

The bottom bolts of the Front Seat Belts needs to be removed from the lower Door Sill on both sides of the car.  A 19 mm Socket will do the job. 

The rear of the carpet goes under the Rear Seat Cushion and loops around the latched the hold the Rear Seat Bottom in place.  On some cars there may be various other Clips or Fasteners that need to be removed before the Carpet can come out.

Once the old remnants of the original Carpet were removed, the replacement carpet was laid down and tucked into place.  The Carpet goes under the lower B-Pilla Trim Pieces, so some slight disassembly may be required.  Once everything is tucked into place, go ahead reinstall everything that was removed previously.

Whoops...Forgot Something

Since I planned on using the Factory Amplifier for the Stereo System in the car, I needed to reinstall the Amp before the Passenger Seat went into the car. 

The Amp is mounted to a Bracket that slides into two preformed slots under the Passenger Seat along with two Phillips Head Screws.  The Wiring for the Amp pokes through the carpet, and plugs into the side of the Amp.
Wooh...Infinity Sound.


Now the stupid Seats can go back in.

All Done

A quick vacuum on the Carpet and Seats, and it looks a ton better.  My Center Console is ready to go in, just waiting for the paint to dry on a part.  
Seats Need Cleaning

I Can't Wait For This Thing To Run Again
It's finally starting to look like a car again.


Alpha, Mike, Foxtrot.....



Saturday, February 24, 2018

Center Console Boogaloo

Interior Work Begins 


The Talon has a two tone Grey and Black interior, which I'm pretty happy with.  Plus the power Leather Driver's Seat is something I've never had...wait, except for my old 05 Pontiac GTO.  That had Power...Everything!  Anyway.....

The Grey/Black interior is much better than the all Grey or Black and Tan interior that some 95-99 Eclipses and Talons got saddled with.  

However, it's but definitely not as cool as the all Black interior some 99 Eclipse's got.  I think the 99 OZ Rally Edition Eclipse was the only model that featured a factory "Black" interior, but I could be wrong.  Turns out it wasn't all Black, but had Black Door Panels and Inserts.

Some owners modified their interiors by painting them Black.  Some of them actually turned out pretty good. 

99 Mitsubishi Eclipse O.Z. Rally Edition

OEM 99 O.Z. Rally Edition Interior.  Not Completely Black From The Factory

Modified Interior With Painted Pieces


 I'd love to have something that in this car.  Actually, I would really love to have this car running and driving, so I guess my dream interior can wait....for now.

Anyway, my car came with some black interior pieces, to include the Center Console. 

Which was in pretty good shape, except for one..two, tiny little things.  Perfect, except for the 1.5 in Analog Water Temperature Gauge SOMEONE decided to install in front of the shifter.  Oh and there was a hole drilled for the LED used for the alarm I pulled out in my last post
This Is Why I Hate People

Fantastic.

The Gauge "Install" ruined what was otherwise a good condition Black Center Console, and it made the Gauge almost impossible to see while driving.  

Try looking past your shifter, at a small needle on a cheap 1.5 inch "Wal-Mart Special" Water Temp Gauge while driving.  

Sounds like a great way to drift into a telephone pole at night

I thought about installing a small Digital Voltmeter Gauge in place of the Water Temp Gauge, but decided to just replace the ruined Center Console with another non "Swiss Cheese" part.

Hunting High And Low

  It turns out, trying to find a decent 2G DSM Black Center Console in Wichita, is kind of hard.  I struck out at the ONE Pick and Pull type junkyard here in town.  Actually, I did find one but someone decided to break it in half while removing something else, instead of pulling it off clean.  The only other 2G in the yard, had a Grey Center Console, which was in perfect shape.  Of course.

  Tried hitting up local DSM Groups on Facebook, with no luck.  Struck out on finding one on Craigslist or car-part.com as well.

You're My Only Hope...Sort Of

I decided to hit up Performance Partout for the part. Great guys and easy to deal with, even if they do the Devil's Work.

Performance Partout is a business in New Jersey that buys DSM's, Galant VR-4's and other Import Cars specifically to part them out.  I hate that complete and mostly running cars get bought specifically to get stripped and then crushed, but there is a demand for parts, and these guys fill that void. So to speak. 

Some cars are wrecks,  complete "Basket Cases" or "Rust Buckets" that would probably never see the road again. 

 Stripping these cars help keep the "Good Ones" on the road.  Right?

Again, I know logically that there's a need for this to happen to these cars.  The company is only filling a vital need for DSM Owners all over the world.  I couldn't find the parts locally, and they had what I needed.  

I will definitely need to use them again in the future.

It doesn't mean I have to like it.

It's Here...

My Center Console arrived after a small delay.  It turns out that they had a problem finding a  Black 2G Center Console as well.  Go figure.  

For Your Protection

It Made It Safely

It wasn't perfect, but it didn't have a small hole carved out of it in front of the Shifter, so I wasn't too worried.  

These cars are OLD now, and the plastics from that era haven't really stood up too well over the years.  This is in NO WAY a complaint about the part that I received.    

The few things I spotted could be fixed, or swapped with parts from the other console.  Just a little bit of work.

Cracked

The first thing I noticed was one of the Mount Points for the Console was cracked.  I hit the cracks with some gel type Super Glue to try and draw the pieces back together.

Kind Of Glued Together


After the glue had time to set, I spread a thin layer of Automotive Goop on the bottom of the mounting point.  The Goop hardens into a tough, temperature resistant and flexible coating which is very useful in fixing all sorts of broken things on cars.  I've used this product many times, and it will help hold the glued pieces together once the console is installed.

Gooped!


Put The Tools Down

The next thing to tackle was the Storage Bin under the Arm Rest for the Center Console.  The Previous Owner had evidently attacked the bottom and the sides of the Storage Bin with what looks like a Hot Knife and carved a hole into the Bottom and the Sides of the Bin.  Probably to install an Aftermarket Component of some kind.
Yup...Still Hate People


Probably, after realizing how STUPID this looked,it was "fixed". A small piece of Contact Paper was cut to fit to the bottom of the Bin to keep items from falling through the hole and under the Console, I assume.

Luckily the Bin in question just snaps into place, and was quickly swapped out after thoroughly cleaning the one that hadn't been attacked by a Hot Knife.
No Holes

Armrest Bingo

The original padded Arm Rest that came with my car had a broken Latch, but an intact Storage Pocket under the lid.  The new Arm Rest had a functioning Latch, but no Storage Pocket Lid.

Since the new Arm Rest was in better shape, both of them were disassembled and the parts swapped to make one GOOD  Arm Rest for the Center Console.
Switcheroo!

Clean Up

The Center Console, Cup Holder, Ash Tray and Shift Boot were cleaned up to get rid of the years of accumulated dirt, junk and other garbage present.

The Cup Holders, Ash Trays and Storage Bins were placed in the sink and soaked in hot water with dish soap.  They were rinsed,  wiped down with paper towels, dried and cleaned with Armor All Cleaning Wipes.  

The Shift Boot was removed and wiped down with a damp paper towel, and then cleaned with the same Armor All Cleaning Wipes.  

The Cigarette Lighter assemblies were removed from both Center Consoles and showed signs of corrosion and flaking paint under the metal trim rings.  These Rings pressed into the plastic Center Console pieces popped out fairly easily with a Flat Tip Screwdriver.  Both of these pieces will be repainted before re-installing the Console into the car.
Needs Paint

Reassembly

It's Done

"Cup Holder" Lol

Once everything was cleaned up, the parts were swapped onto their respective consoles.

The "Good" Console will go into the car once everything in the interior is finished.  I still need to pull both seats out and install the spare set of carpet that I have.

  The "Bad" Console will stick around for awhile, at least until the other one is installed in the car.

Unfortunately, I've learned that it's sometimes better to keep stuff around..."Just In Case."

I swear that's just not my "Inner Packrat" talking.

Damnit.


Alpha, Mike, Foxtrot...